Organic Vegetable Garden

lanier_2k5 says:

Organic Gardening Tips
Brad Brummond
Extension Agent/Walsh County

Organic gardening revolves around preventative pest management, rotations, soil fertility and nurturing the natural enemies of the pests in your garden.

Certification
There are two types of organic vegetable production in North Dakota, certified vegetable production and non-certified vegetable production.

Certified vegetable production refers to raising produce under the production standards of the certifying organizations.

The Organic Foods Production Act of 1990 is working policy toward a national standard for organic production. The goal of this act is to standardize organic production. Currently there are a number of certification groups with their own standards of organic production in the United States.

Commercial organic producers are all certified by one verifying system or another. Certificates are necessary because it is impossible to market organic vegetables commercially without this certificate. Wholesale buyers demand it.

The principle certification organizations in North Dakota are:

FVO – Farm Verified Organic

OCIA – Organic Crop Improvement Association

OGBA – Organic Growers and Buyers Association

Fees are charged for certification or membership. Remember, in order to be certified, guidelines set forth by the organization must be followed.

Home gardeners can practice organic production without certification. Most of the vegetables produced are consumed at home with a few marketed at farmers’ markets for extra income.

Growing Organic Vegetables
Seed used in certified organic production must be free of chemical treatments. If a certain crop is unavailable in non-treated form, authorization from the certifier is necessary before making purchase. The burden of proof is on the grower to certify through OCIA. Check with the certifier to be sure.

Select varieties with the best disease and insect resistance. Select early maturing cultivars. The earlier plants mature the less time insects and diseases have to compete for the vegetables. Late maturing vegetables are more prone to disease and insect problems.

Rotating Vegetables
Some vegetable rotations that have been used in the Northeastern United States by organic growers are the following:

Potatoes after sweet corn, sweet corn after the cabbage family, peas after tomatoes, tomatoes after beans, root crops after cucurbits and potatoes before root crops. When picking a rotation, remember that vegetables from the same plant family usually have the same problems.

Here are some vegetables that do well when they are planted together: beans-potatoes; peas-carrots; peas-turnips; cabbage-beets; kohlrabi-beets; spinach-cauliflower; spinach-eggplant; corn-cucumbers and corn-beans.

Attractants
Dill attracts the tomato hornworm, so plant it on the opposite side of the garden from tomatoes.

Repellents
Sage repels cabbage moths and black flea beetles. Don’t count on sage working under heavy pressure from these insects, but it might be worth while to plant a little sage with cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli. Chives have some repellant properties for aphids. Marigolds will repel a variety of insects.

Fertility
Non-organic fertilizer is forbidden under any organic production system, but that does not mean the nutrients the plant needs cannot be supplied from organic sources. Soil testing is suggested to determine what nutrients need to be added to the garden. (Gardeners note: Too much nitrogen can harm the garden. Know what levels exist before applying more).

Following are some average figures for a ton of manure per acre. These are average figures, as manure will vary in nutrient content. Values are for what a ton of wet manure fertilizer will supply for nutrients.

Nutrient Content Manure Actual Actual Actual
Source Nitrogen Phosphorus Potassium
Beef 14 lbs. 9 lbs. 11 lbs.
Hog 10 lbs. 7 lbs. 8 lbs.
Poultry 20 lbs. 7 lbs. 8 lbs.
Sheep 18 lbs. 11 lbs. 20 lbs.

——————————————————————————–

Be sure manure sources are well composted to maximize weed seed kill and residual disease carryover.

Organic Insect Control
Rotations are the first and best way to preventi insect problems. The next best option is hand removal of old plant residue if working in a small garden. Organic growers tend to use organic insecticides as a last resort. Note: Check with your certifier to see if they are acceptable. Sabadilla is certified acceptable under OCIA as a restricted use organic product, which means it is to be used only if no other alternatives are feasible. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is an acceptable product but cannot contain petroleum distillates in the formulation, according to OCIA.

Insecticidal soaps (not household) can control a wide range of plant destructive insects, especially aphids.

CABBAGE WORMS – For control use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Read and follow label directions. Hand picking is also an alternative.

COLORADO POTATO BEETLES – Hand pick insects or use an application of Bt.

Bt should be applied when first instar larvae are present in the field. Bt takes time to work and is best on larvae control.

CUCUMBER BEETLES – Rotation … Rotation … Rotation!! Rotate the garden plants and sites.

FLEA BEETLES will most likely be one of the most difficult insects to control. Early maturing varieties may help lessen the time plants have to tolerate them. Properly acclimated (hardened) transplants are not as attractive to flea beetles as emerging seedlings.

SLUGS, ROOT MAGGOT AND CUTWORMS – Diatomaceous earth

APHIDS can be controlled by high populations of lacewings and lady bugs. Surrounding the vegetable production area with a mix of wildflowers helps maintain a population of predatory insects.

Diseases
Keep plants healthy.
Rotate vegetable plants and sites.
Space vegetables further apart to allow more air flow.
Plant to take advantage of the prevailing winds so air flow is increased down the row.
Don’t go into the garden when plants are still wet.
Sanitation is important. Remove and destroy all parts of dead plants. They are a source of disease. Do it immediately after they are no longer useful! When thinning, remove thinned plants immediately.
Don’t harvest vegetables when plants are wet.
Avoid overhead watering. Drip irrigation can efficiently deliver water and keep foliage dry.
Crucifer Disease
Aerate the soil.
Leave adequate space between plants and rows.
Organic Controls
Copper, sulfur and Bordeux mixes have been used with limited success on vegetables in eastern United States. Some organic producers will not use these as they feel the products leave a chemical residue. However, such residues are easily washed off.

Marketing Organic Vegetables
Price premiums have historically been 10 to 50 percent above conventional prices in northeastern United States. The northeast and California have the biggest markets for organic vegetables.

Selecting Vegetables to Market
Organic vegetable producers take great pains to sell only high quality products. Detractors regularly say the quality of organic vegetables is not as high as that of conventional vegetables, but organic producers generally cull harder and market less of their produce to keep the quality high.

Organic vegetables are traditionally sold on the perception that they are healthier than the traditionally grown vegetables. Marketing would be very difficult if low quality vegetables were offered for sale. Perception is everything in the organic food markets!

Summary
Organic food production is as much a state of mind as it is a production system. The biggest barrier most people face when switching to organic production is the change in thinking that must occur to make it successful. We have long been taught to treat individual insects and diseases separately instead of looking at things as a whole. The organic gardener must understand how everything is inter-related and how one set of circumstances will influence other factors in how the plant grows. Prevention is the first and best defense against pests in organic vegetable production.

There has been a perception by some people that organic vegetable production is farming through neglect. Nothing could be further from the truth! A strong, healthy
plant is much more important in an organic system then a conventional system. A two to three year learning curve must be accepted by anyone intending to switch from conventional to organic gardening. What works one year may fail the next. Management skills are challenged.

WARNING!
There are many organic certification organizations, each with its own set of standards and acceptable products. While most agree on the major points, they differ on what they will or will not accept.

REMEMBER TO CHECK WITH YOUR CERTIFICATION ORGANIZATION BEFORE APPLYING A PRODUCT WHICH IS QUESTIONABLE. USE OF AN UNACCEPTABLE PRODUCT MAY RESULT IN NON-CERTIFICATION AND IMPACT SALES OR RESULT IN NO SALE.

Don’t get into organic garden pro-duction just for the hope of premiums. They may or may not be there. It is a long, hard struggle, but most organic producers would tell you it is worth it once you master the skill, patience and perceptive abilities.

Reference Material
The Real Dirt
1994 Northeast Organic Farming Association
Farmers Tell About Organic & Low-Input Practices in the Northeast. Edited by Miranda Smith and members of the Northeast Organic Farming Association and Cooperative Extension.

Carrots Love Tomatoes
1975 Garden Way by Garden Way Publishing
Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening. Louise Riotte.

H-1106
February 1996

NDSU Extension Service, North Dakota State University of Agriculture and Applied Science, and U.S. Department of Agriculture
References :
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/hortcrop/h1106w.htm

Below are some of our favorite gardening tips & tricks, many of which have been written for our e-newsletter. If you would like to contribute a tip, please send us an e-mail to info@planetnatural.com. We will be continually adding to this section and your input is always welcome.
1-50 | 51-100 |101-150 | 151-200
1. Organic pest control begins with healthy soil. It produces healthy plants, which are better able to withstand disease and insect damage.
2. Organic fertilizers are safer than chemicals. Chemical fertilizers may, in time, build up salts.
3. Apply compost to your garden about two to four weeks before you plant, giving the compost time to integrate and stabilize within the soil.
4. Do not overfertilize garlic or it will become leafy. Use a high phosphorus fertilizer (the middle number) to promote bulb formation.
5. New beds need soil amendments and double digging for that extra starting kick.
6. Soak finished compost in water to "brew" compost "tea," a nutrient-rich liquid that can be used for foliar feeding or for watering plants in your garden, backyard, or houseplants.
7. Specimen plants which need a warmer climate zone than you have do well in sheltered, south-facing walls. The wall acts as a solar collector, absorbing heat during the day and releasing it at night, creating a small zone that is warmer than the rest of the garden.
8. Begin deep watering your trees and shrubs in the spring if you don’t get a soaking rain every 10 – 14 days.
9. When planting trees, don’t give them too much organic matter in the hole they’re going in. If the hole is filled with rich organic matter and compost but the surrounding soil is hard and compact or less nutritious, the roots are less likely to spread out into the soil. When the tree isn’t anchored well by large roots, it is more likely to be blown over and be less healthy and less able to resist drought.
10. Outdoors potted plants and baskets are the only plants that need daily water on the hottest, driest days of the summer.
11. Once a seed sprouts it must be kept watered. If it dries out, it dies. If seeds are lightly covered with soil, they may need to be gently sprinkled with water once or twice a day to keep them moist.
12. When planting in clay soil, cover seeds with vermiculite instead of clay. Clay absorbs heat and may bake the seeds and stop germination. Clay also forms a top crust, forming a barrier for the young seedlings.
13. Trees and bushes placed carefully in the middle of flower beds add height and variety to the entire landscape.
14. Low-growing ornamental grasses can cascade over walls, edge low borders, and taller varieties can stand in for a row of shrubs.
15. A small extension curtain rod is an excellent support rod for plants. The length can continually be adjusted without disturbing the plants.
16. Native trees are low maintenance; they have developed natural defenses against insects and disease over the centuries, and they rarely need pruning or feeding.
17. Throw a handful of finished compost in the hole for a flower or vegetable transplant before transplanting. The compost gives the transplant a bit of an extra boost that lasts throughout the season.
18. Check moisture in container plants often with your fingers. Potting soil is often lightweight and dries out quickly.
19. Short on space but like vining vegetables? Train your squash, melons, and cucumbers onto a vertical trellis. Support the fruiting vines gently and thoroughly.
20. Watering is necessary when transplanting, but be careful not to over water.
21. Water your gardens and plants in the early morning or dusk to save water. Watering during the heat of the day burns plants and increases evaporation and loss of water.
22. Picking off flowers frequently encourage most annuals to flower more abundantly.
23. To continue blooming, container plants need large amounts of nutrients and water. Since water tends to wash out the nutrients, use finished compost or a good organic fertilizer as top-dressing.
24. Whenever possible use natural and organic fertilizers such as compost. Chemicals build up toxicity in soil, which leaches into drinking water.
25. Botanical insecticides are plant derivatives, and can be more toxic than some synthetics. They are, however, better in the long run because they break down rapidly and do not accumulate in the food chain as synthetics do.
26. Variety and balance are keys to good landscaping. Color, density, size, shape and contrasting colors should all be considered.
27. Morning sun is more beneficial than afternoon sun.
28. Fertilize before a rain whenever possible.
29. Transplant seedlings to larger containers after they have grown 2 pairs of leaves.
30. Don’t use garden soil as potting soil in containers. Its quality and texture is variable; it may drain poorly or be too loose and drain too quickly. It is also more likely to contain diseases, weed seeds and insects.
31. When choosing plants for your yard or garden, analyze your specific sunlight, soil, and climate first. Choose plants accordingly.
32. Learn to tell bulbs’ noses from their basal plates, and plant them heads up.
33. Bare spots on your lawn? Find an interesting native ground cover and plant it in an appealing design on the bare spot.
34. Water well before and after applying mulch to give your landscaping a good beginning.
35. Use a color wheel to find neighbors and opposites. Begin with a color wheel to design a beautiful, purposeful garden. Avoid simply throwing colors together but put a little time into planning.
36. Soak bare root plants in water for several hours to prepare them for planting after their dehydration.
37. Prepare beds for annuals and small plants by working in plenty of organic material, layer mulch on top, then gently stick the transplants through mulch to the appropriate depth.
38. Garden hydrangeas’ color can be manipulated with the soil pH. Pink and red hydrangeas turn blue and purple in acid soils, while blue hydrangeas turn pink in alkaline soils.
39. Late spring and early summer is the best time to side-dress with compost your rapidly growing plants. Gently scratch the compost into the soil, taking care to start it about an inch away from the stem.
40. Garlic, leeks and shallots make excellent container plants. They typically have few insect or disease problems, don’t have deep roots and don’t take up much space.
41. Do not fertilize during the fall or the winter.
42. In general, thinner leaved plants need more water to stay alive, thicker leaved plants need less.
43. Beneficial insects are attracted to your garden by coreopsis, feverfew, and sweet alyssum.
44. Like flowers in your yard but don’t like the work that annuals present? Plant perennials instead; they come up year after year.
45. Egg cartons make excellent seed starters. Punch a hole in the bottom for drainage, fill with potting soil, plant your seeds and watch them flourish!
46. For a great crop of peas, start them indoors. The germination rate is far better, and the seedlings will be healthier and better able to fight off pests and disease.
47. Like potatoes but don’t have much garden space? Try potatoes in barrels or other large containers. Start the potatoes indoors to give them a good head start. Start the potatoes deep in the pot, then fill in the soil as the stems grow upwards.
48. Cinnamon makes an excellent natural fungicide. Mix in your potting soil when planting seeds to prevent damping off of the seedlings.
49. Compost is not a fertilizer. It builds up organic matter in the soil.
50. Take cuttings from healthy clematis plants. Each cutting should include at least on undamaged leaf joint. Dip in cutting gel and plant in paper or peat pots. Clematis do not take to transplanting, so be sure to plant them in the soil pot and all.

http://www.planetnatural.com/site/gardening_tips.html

http://www.organicgardentips.com/

http://home.howstuffworks.com/organic-gardening-tips.htm